Ecuador: La Balsa/Vilcabamba/Loja (Day 253-255)

Ecuador side at La Balsa Border... the remote one!

Right between Peru and Ecuador in the Amazonas

Ranchera - Our first transport in Ecuador... Only 1h30 on some bumpy road...

Our little friend for 4h on Thierry´s lap... Buses are quite full in Ecuador!

A legend in Vilcabamba... 100 years old and still rocking!

Vilcabamba is called the Valley of Longevity. Indeed, it is widely believed that its inhabitants grow to a very old age. Locals assert that it is not uncommon to see a person reach 100 years of age and it is claimed that many have gotten to 120, even up to 135, which would make it an area with the oldest inhabitants in the world.

Don´t know how old but they are everywhere...

Here again...

The blue house... Chez l´habitant! ($5 the night)

In every corner of Loja, we can get shiny shoes!

Peru: Chachapoyas/Amazonas (Day 245-252)

Kuelap - Chachapoyas ruins, built well before the Incas

The Chachapoyas, also called the Warriors of the Clouds, were an Andean people living in the cloud forests of the Amazonas region of present-day Peru. The Incas conquered their civilization shortly before the arrival of the Spanish in Peru.

El Pueblo de Los Muertos

Sarcophagus... There are skeletons inside (in fetal position)

Karajia sarcophagus (2m high)

Arrived first at the Kuelap ruins... Alone on the site...

Revash funerary complex

Happy Thierry... Eating his first Ceviche in Trujillo!!!!! Delicious... Without forgetting `La Cusquena´ of course!

Hmmm... An opera! (Notice the before/after shave...)

I had waiting so long for a cake like this... Not true, we had quite a few in North Peru...

Peru: Huaraz & La Cordillera Blanca (Day 239-244)

Laguna 69, amazing day-trek to 4700 m

So instead of having some restful time at the Eco Lodge, we chose to spent 6 days in Huaraz to enjoy the Cordillera Blanca with some trekking and more altitude!!!! Indeed, the city itself is at 3060m above sea level and the Cordillera Blanca includes 33 major peaks over 5500m. Inpressive & amazingly beautiful. We were too tired physically (Thank you Peruvian food!) to embark on a 4-day trek (the well-known Santa Cruz trek would have been one of them) or attempt a climb over 5000m. A shame but we still managed to do some day hikes such as the Laguna 69. The most beautiful 1-day trek so far... 2h30 to go up to 4700m, not bad again we think! And it was so worth it as the color of the laguna was stunning... and the view of the glacier just behind made the scenery even more spectacular... Then, a short rock climbing experience. Hatun Machay is a paradise for rock climbers... not for beginners though... However, the site itself is worth visiting. Rest we wanted, Peace we had! Another walk up to 4800m to enjoy the sunrise of a beautiful morning... It was quite exceptional, even more when you are just both of you up there! Huaraz is not to be missed in Peru, that´s for sure. We could have stayed much longer there as there is so much to do, without forgetting the great hostal were we were staying 'El Tampo' (recommended) where we enjoyed the exquisite breakfasts 'Pancake Banano con Dulce de Leche (Manjar)'! Not sick for that one ;-) Huaraz, you will see us again with a stronger stomach.

 

Hatun Machay... Rock climbing paradise...

I wish it was me... Maybe soon?!

Trek to 4800 m at 6am... Beautiful and peaceful!

Peru: Lima & Eco Truly Park (Day 236-238)

The temple... Hare Krisna!

A very quick stop in Lima, which we did not see much as we went straight to Miraflores (arrived at night), the rich & secure area of the capital city. We have a really good address of a place to stay there Maria, a mamita, has 2 rooms in her house to rent out, very cute and we felt at home for 2 days. It was needed as I spent my time in bed (Thierry watching football) and I recovered very well! Sorry, this is the only thing I can say about Lima :-() 

Then, 10 days volunteering in a Eco-Lodge, 1h30 away from Lima up the coast was the plan, which turned out in 2 days only. Living in a community, practicing yoga, cooking organic vegetarian food was the idea. Well the site itself was interesting and uncommon but let´s say that for the rest, it was not our cup of tea... It is worth checking out though from October to January when it is actually sunny. Indeed the weather is rather foggy & grey every day all other months of the year apparently... We thus carried on... Again, that´s what is so good about having time! No need to plan, just need to leave or stay whenever you feel like it!

To find out more, visit: http://volunteeringecotrulypark.blogspot.com/

Peru: Huacachina & Islas Ballestas (Day 233-235)

After finding out that our next stop (Huancacho) was part of the red zone (the French government advise 'not to go'), we changed our route - direction the coast: Huacachina. We passed the town of Nazca on the way, famous for its lines representing hundreds shallow designs - 70 of them are zoomorphic, the others are geometric shapes or simple lines. We did not stopped as the flight costs about $100 to be able to observe them. Choices have to be made during a 1-year trip... So we arrived in the unique oasis of South America... Huge sand dunes to climb to discover a desert. I really loved being up there. Buggy one afternoon with some sand boarding! Well, lying on the board head first as the dunes were impressive! I tried to sandboard but only managed the first dune. The second attempt could have been damaging... 3 days of real pain, I will remember. Good fun though!

A visit to the Islas Ballestas, the 'poor man's Galapagos'. Thousands of birds, penguins and sea lions...  We also saw the Candelabro, a candelabra-shaped etching in the desert hills above the sea. Mysterious are all those lines/symbols found on the ground!

The origin of the Candelabro is unclear, and there are numerous theories about it. Some attribute it to the Chavín culture from the north of Peru, claiming that it is a drawing of a cactus, which was an important symbol of power. Others claim it has links with the Southern Cross, and some say it is linked to the Nazca Lines, about 200km to the south. However, most theories now attribute it to the 19 th century, saying that it was used as a navigational tool to guide sailors into the bay of Paracas . Some think it was used by General San Martín to guide his ships into Peru when liberating the country, while another theory is that it was used by pirates.

The Candelabro